Porto + Douro Valley (for wine lovers!)
Porto + the duoro valley
I’ll just come right out and say it…I left a piece of my heart in Porto. Lisbon tends to get all the attention, but Porto and the Douro Valley have so much more to offer than drinking Port wine (but that’s still a great reason to visit!).
Stay at The House of Sandeman Hostel & Suites
We arrived in Porto the night before our friends, so we had a little time to preview the city. Without knowing too much about it, we booked a night at The House of Sandeman Hostel & Suites, and WOW…I wish we had the chance to stay here more than one night. The hostel was kind enough to upgrade us to a beautiful room overlooking the Douro River. It’s also a great place for meeting new people, as they have a large bar/lounge area and host various social events and activities.
Get some lunch and do a wine-tasting! Our pick: Adriano Ramos Pinto
The hostel was on the other side of the river from the main area of Porto, but don’t let that deter you- this is where all of the Port houses are located! Besides Sandeman, the big ones in this area are Croft, Taylor’s, and Graham’s, but there are many other wineries to explore. Although there are many restaurant options along the river here, we at lunch at the Mercado Beira-Rio food market. We could each get what we wanted because there are many different food vendors inside. Afterward, we walked down to Adriano Ramos Pinto for a wine-tasting.
The worn flower-adorned walkway of Adriano Ramos Pinto led us to a surprisingly large, modern tasting room. They do offer tours, but we opted for just a tasting since they were closing fairly early that evening. Our experiences with Port wine were minimal, and this tasting was perfect for beginner and experienced Port-lovers alike. Our tasting included five Ports, from white to tawny to ruby, and included a pamphlet that walked us through each wine. The tawny ended up being my favorite! Like champagne, a true Port must be produced in the Douro Valley, so drinking it in the region it was made makes the experience that much more special. If you’d like to learn more about the different types of Port, check out this Quick Guide to Port Wine!
Duoro VALLEY
Drive to Peso da Régua
When our friends arrived the next morning, we rented a car and drove to the Douro Valley! The drive from Porto took around 75 minutes. The region is filled with different styles of accommodations, so where you stay may depend on the type of experience you’re looking to have. We chose an Airbnb in the small town of Peso da Régua that was located on a beautiful vineyard. This is not uncommon in the Douro Valley- many vineyards are also hotels! Although the views were breathtaking, I will not share our Airbnb this time, as I would not recommend it. Checking into our house took much longer than expected, so unfortunately we did not have time for lunch- a harsh reminder to always carry snacks. Flexibility when traveling is essential to a good trip, so we made the most of it!
Tour and wine tasting at Quinta do Vallado
Wanting to immerse ourselves in the wine experience immediately, we ignored our hunger and had wine for lunch! Quinta do Vallado is over 300 years old, making it one of the oldest wineries in the Douro Valley. Unlike many vineyards in the U.S. where you can wander in unexpectedly, vineyards in Europe that do offer tastings (many do not) often require reservations. Thankfully we knew this, so we made a reservation for an English-speaking tour and tasting beforehand.
Dinner…?
Explore the Douro Valley on a full-day wine tour!
In order to get the most out of our Douro Vally experience (and not drive after drinking), we booked a day tour with CM Tour around the Douro Valley. Our tour and guide were both fantastic. Click here for the tour we purchased on Viator, or here for the direct link to the CM Tour website. Continue reading for more details on our Douro adventure!
Our tour guide met us at the Régua Pedestrian Bridge, but we went a little early to check out the view. As you can see, it did not disappoint! Once our guide arrived, she recommended getting coffee and a pastry from A Tendinha, the cafe near the bridge. More specifically, she recommended a pastel de nata, which is essentially a Portuguese custard tart.
First stop: Quinta de Marrocos
The terraced vineyards of Quinta de Marrocos overlook the Douro River and make for an exceptionally beautiful vineyard tour. The vines here are over 100 years old, and all work is done manually to keep with tradition. These particular vines do not yield a huge quantity of grapes, meaning the Port here is produced in a limited supply. The only thing that would make me want to stop this tour was a wine tasting! In a tasting room overlooking the Douro River, we enjoyed a range of Ports, all of which I loved. Drinking wine with a breathtaking view is hard to beat!
Second stop: Lunch at Restaurante Varanda da Régua
I didn’t think the view could get any better, but our next stop proved me wrong! Our tour guide took us to lunch at Restaurante Varanda da Régua, and we had the place almost entirely to ourselves. The restaurant even made me a special vegan meal, which I recommend requesting beforehand, if needed.
Third stop: Duoro River Cruise
Wine tasting by land and by sea! Okay, it’s a river, but drinking wine on a river boat is much easier anyway! This part of the tour gave us a new perspective of the Douro Valley vineyards and just how expansive they are. It’s a nice way to break up the vineyard-hopping, and I’ll take any excuse to get on the water!
To see a glimpse of how extensive the vineyard region is, check out this video I took from our tour bus:
Fourth stop: Quinta do Jalloto
Although Quinta do Jalloto was the smallest of the vineyards we visited, it absolutely did not disappoint! In addition to the wine, the views were spectacular. Like many other wineries in this region, they also produce olive oil and honey. The roads getting here were…adventurous, so we were thankful to have a driver who knew them well. We probably spent just as much time taking pictures as we did drinking wine!
Fifth (and final) stop: Quita da Roêda
You wouldn’t know it from the name, but Quinta da Roêda is the flagship location of one of the most well-known Port houses in Portugal: Croft! Both the grounds and tasting room are quite large, and they have a beautiful outdoor patio area. During the tour, we were allowed to wander between the vines a bit and explore. During our tasting inside, we tried a new kind of Port: Pink! Pink Port (also called Rosé Port) is a new style of Port created to help attract younger audiences to the world of Port wine. Though many scoff at this trendy, non-traditional style, it’s actually quite delicious, and we ended up purchasing a bottle for later! This beautiful vineyard was the perfect end to our full-day wine tour. I highly recommend it!
Reservations recommended
Tasca Da Quinta was one of our most memorable meals in Portugal. When we arrived at the restaurant location, I was certain that I had led us to the wrong spot, because it seemingly was not there. We almost gave up and left, but just at the right moment, a man came out of his house and walked to where we were standing. He opened a door that we didn’t even realize was there and welcomed us into his restaurant. The inside of Tasca Da Quinta was incredibly charming and homey, almost as if we were having dinner at a friend’s. The quaint menus were handwritten, and when we chatted with the owner a bit, he shared that his handwriting is so terrible that he asked his mother to write them. Both the food and wine were incredible. If you’re looking for an authentic, local food experience in Peso da Régua, this is the place to go!
Morning exploring: Provesende
Visiting the village of Provesende is the perfect way to step back in time for a few hours. It is ideal to wander by foot, and a parking area is located at the entrance to the town. The village no longer has the population it once did, so it feels almost untouched. Still, cafes, shops, and tasting rooms can be found scattered about if you wish to extend your time here. The surrounding area is home to a number of Quintas, as well. We simply enjoyed the slow pace of the morning, where we saw few people but plenty of charm.
Lunch with a view: Restaurante Cozinha da Clara
On our drive back to Peso da Régua, we stopped at Cozinha da Clara, located at the Quinta de la Rosa in Pinhão. We chose this restaurant specifically for the view, but the food was equally enjoyable! We had to sit inside due to the rain, but we still had a great experience.
Cozinha da clara
Wine o’clock at Castas e Pratos
Castas e Pratos was our intended lunch location on our first day in Peso da Régua (when we skipped lunch and when straight to Quinta do Vallado). Not wanting to miss this beautifully designed restaurant and wine bar, we stopped here for a mid-afternoon glass of wine before heading to dinner.
Treat-Yourself: Dinner at Six Senses Douro Valley
Six Senses is a luxury hotel brand that offers wellness resort & spa experiences around the world. Although staying at this incredible resort was not in the cards for us, we took advantage of the opportunity to spoil ourselves with the once-in-a-lifetime dining experience they offer. Only a 10-minute drive from Peso da Régua, our arrival at the resort’s Vale de Abraão restaurant already felt like a hidden gem. When our phone navigation instructed us to turn onto the winding, cobblestone road leading to its entrance, we were hesitant, but that only increased the wow-factor. The grounds and interiors of the resort are equally exquisite. I walked through the hotel and its notable wine library in a state of both disbelief and awe. The path to the grand dining room goes straight through the kitchen, and everyone greeted us along the way.
We were the first to arrive that evening (Americans tend to eat dinner earlier than other countries), and our host sat us at a beautiful round table next to a walk-in fireplace that looked straight out of…I’m just going to say it…Harry Potter. The decor was sophisticated, yet modern, with large windows providing the perfect backdrop of the Douro vineyards. Over the next few hours, we enjoyed the local tradition of taking time to enjoy our meal. We were served multiple courses made with fresh, seasonal foods from the region. They were happy to accommodate my food preferences, and the quality of our meals was exceptional. We definitely splurged on this meal, but in the U.S. we probably would have spent at least twice as much, and I am so thankful to have had this experience.
Bom Jesus Do Monte
Climb the 577 steps of Bom Jesus do Monte
In true road trip fashion, we took a detour (albeit a planned one)! Located 90 minutes northwest of Peso da Régua and 45 minutes northeast of Porto, Bom Jesus do Monte (meaning “Good Jesus of the Mount”) is a sanctuary and Christian pilgrimage site. This UNESCO World Heritage site, which has been present here since the 14th century, looks out over the beautiful city of Braga. In addition to the sanctuary, the Sacred Way Staircase and its zigzagged Staircase of the Five Senses was built in 18th century. Traditionally, pilgrims would climb the stairs on their knees and were met by five different fountains, each representing the five senses. Additional religious images were added to the staircase over time. Read more about the staircases of Bom Jesus do Monte here.
The grounds of Bom Jesus do Monte are quite large, so we mostly stayed in the area near the cathedral and staircase. There are three ways to reach this central area: drive to the top, drive to the bottom and walk up the Sacred Way Staircase, or drive to the bottom and take the funicular up to the top of the stairs. Of course, you can do a combination of these as well. Driving there was a bit confusing, so we found ourselves at the top, which is the option I would choose again. Because it was raining a bit, parking was plentiful, but I can imagine that it fills up more quickly on popular days. I was thankful for the rain, in fact, because the landscaped grounds were wonderfully lush and vibrant. The view of Braga from this altitude was amazing on its own, but as we continued to explore, we found more and more to love. The gardens were something out of a dream. The cathedral was also beautiful, but I didn’t spend time taking photos inside because after living in Spain for some time, I had seen quite a lot of them! Many visit Bom Jesus do Monte for the Sacred Way Staircase, ourselves included, and they did not disappoint. We decided to climb both down and up in order to view them from both perspectives, and I’m glad we did. One could spend an hour or two examining the all of the details put into this elaborate work of art.
Bonus excursion: We ended up skipping this, but for all you cathedral-lovers out there, the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Sameiro is less than a 10-minute drive from Bom Jesus do Monte. This 19th century Catholic shrine is devoted to the Virgin Mary and offers an even more impressive view of Braga.
Spend a day exploring Braga
Portugal’s third-largest city may not be as famous as Porto and Lisbon, but it is well-known in Portugal for its Semana Santa (Holy Week) celebration. Very pedestrian-friendly, Braga is perfect for exploring a Portuguese city without the crowds.
Order a francesinha at Lado B Café
After climbing 17 flights of stairs at Bom Jesus do Monte, we were hungry! It is very important to me when traveling to find local dishes to enjoy. Trying regional cuisine is an essential part of learning about and embracing a local culture, but this can be difficult for me as a vegan. Fortunately, finding vegan food is getting easier everyday, and many restaurants are even starting to make vegan versions of local specialties! While in Braga, we were fortunate enough to find a café that served both traditional- and vegan-style versions of the francesinha. Translating to “little Frenchie,” this “sandwich” is essentially the Portuguese version of a croque monsieur. It originated in Porto and contains bread and various types of ham & sausage that are then covered in cheese and a tomato/beer sauce. Lado B Café claims to have “The Best Francesinha in the World,” and I don’t disagree!
Count architectural styles at Portugal’s oldest cathedral
Estimated to be around 900 years old, the Braga Cathedral is an architectural treasure. Because it has been altered so many times over the centuries, it is comprised of many architectural styles: Romanesque, Gothic, Manueline, Renaissance, and Baroque. Its most notable feature is the elaborate Baroque-style double organ. The cathedral also houses a museum of sacred art. Admission ranges from 2-5€, depending on what you want to see. Although cathedrals are plentiful in Portugal, this one is definitely worth a visit.
Step-up your Instagram game at Palácio do Raio
We made a stop at Palácio do Raio for no other reason than to see this beautiful building, and it was even more magnificent in person. This Baroque-style residence was built in the mid-1700s for a wealthy merchant, however, it is now named after another wealthy man who purchased it 100 years later. There is a medical museum inside that includes some history of the building (it is next to Braga’s hospital), but hours are limited, so be sure to check their website.
The most perfect photo ever taken, at Palácio do Raio
Take a romantic stroll through the Jardim de Santa Barbara (Garden of Santa Barbara)
The lovely Jardim de Santa Barbara sits in front of the Old Archbishop's Palace. As the name reveals, this palace was once the residence of the archbishops of Braga. Like Braga’s cathedral, this palace was built over time and therefore possesses different architectural styles from various periods. In the middle of the garden sits a fountain with a statue of Santa Barbara, the protector of the garden and palace.
Rua do Souto (Chestnut Street)
The Rua do Souto is the most popular pedestrian-only street in Braga. Lined with many shops and restaurants, it is the perfect place for a stroll any time of day!
Livraria Centésima Página (Hundredth Page Bookstore)
Livraria Centésima Página is an independent bookstore located in a beautiful, historic building on the edge of Praça da Republica, Braga’s main city square. In addition to selling both English- and Portuguese-language books, the bookstore also houses a café and garden for a truly relaxing environment. The bookstore’s name was inspired by this quote from author Albert Camus:
“If I had to write a book on morality, it would have a hundred pages and ninety-nine would be blank. On the last page I should write: “I recognize only one duty, and that is to love.”
More things to see & do in Braga:
Hibiscus: Buffet-style vegetarian/vegan restaurant
Arco da Porta Nova: We did see this 18th century arch, but my photo did not turn out well.
Dona Petisca: Small café in the heart of Braga; famous for their sausages
Bars: Barhaus, Sé La Vie, Domus Vinum
Porto
After a chill evening in Braga, we left for Porto the next morning (about a 50 minute drive). Because Porto is so walkable, it seemed more of an inconvenience to us to have a car, so we drove to the airport first to drop off our rental car. We then took the train (2€) from the airport to São Bento Train Station.
Gaze upon the azulejo tiles of São Bento Train Station
São Bento translates to Saint Benedict, the name of the convent that once stood in its place before it burned down in the late 1700s. In the early 1900s, this new station was built in its place. It is now one of the most recognized buildings in Porto, in addition to being a UNESCO World Heritage Site. What makes this train station so famous are its beautiful azulejo tiles, which depict magnificent scenes of Portugal’s history and culture on the station’s walls. An important art form in Portuguese culture, you can read more about the history of azulejo tiles here.
Get your brunch on at The Hungry Biker
We expected Porto to be hilly, but it was much more so than we expected! We had our travel backpacks with, so we decided to walk to breakfast. The walk was a bit tiring with luggage, but it made breakfast even more satisfying! We had an incredible breakfast feast at The Hungry Biker, giving us a lot of energy to go out and explore Porto.
statue
Other things to see in this area:
Walk amongst the Fernandine Walls
Have a glass of Vinho Verde along the Cais da Ribeira
Test your fear of heights at Porto Bridge Climb
Attention: Harry Potter fans! The rest of this trip is just for you.
Livraria Lello Bookstore
