Milan + Lake Como
Milan & Lake Como
Day One:
Spend the morning exploring Bergamo
We didn’t expect to fall in love with Bergamo, but it is a dreamy Italian city frozen in time. Since we live in Spain, flying into the Bergamo airport was the easiest and cheapest option. Arriving the night before allowed us to wake up in Italy and get everything we could out of our first day there. The streets of upper Bergamo were dim and bare with the exception of a few Irish tourists, who had found the last open bar in town, and a late-night walk-up eatery around the corner. It’s difficult for me to find the right words to describe the romance of being in the empty city late at night; you’ll just have to discover it for yourself.
Where We Stayed: Uptown Bed & Breakfast (yes, I would stay here again!)
Take a morning stroll along the Venetian Walls
The 16th century Venetian Walls run for over 3.5 miles along the edge of upper Bergamo (Città Alta), which separate the city from lower Bergamo (Città Bassa). It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and you can read more about it here. It was breathtaking to look out onto lower Bergamo as the sun continued to rise.
Tour the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore & Cappella Colleoni
The Basilica has a fascinating history! When a plague struck Europe (no, not THE plague), the citizens of Bergamo prayed to the Virgin Mary to spare them. In return, they would build a grand church in her name. The people of Bergamo were spared, and they kept their word! You can read more about the church here.
Cappella Colleoni is a 15th-century shrine located in the back of the Basilica and is definitely worth a few minutes of your time as well.
Admire the picture-perfect Piazza Vecchia and ride to the top of the Campanone
Behind the Basilica is Piazza Vecchia and the Campanone. The Piazza is one of the most beautiful plazas I have ever seen, and you can read more about it here.
The Campanone (or Civic Tower) was originally a home built by a noble family as a demonstration of their wealth. Now it is a place to get some of the best views of Bergamo. I recommend going in the morning if you want to have it all to yourself! Truly breathtaking. You don’t need a lot of time here, but it’s definitely worth a visit! Read more here. The best way to explore Bergamo is simply to wander, so if you have time, definitely do so! I wish we could have spent more time here.
From our B&B we took the 1.50€ bus to the station, then purchased tickets in what looked like a convenience store for the next train leaving to Milan (45-minute ride). Arriving in Milan was like time travel. As the financial and fashion capital of Italy, we couldn’t have arrived in a more contrasting environment from where we were that morning.
We chose to stay at an Airbnb in the Porta Venezia neighborhood. Although it is pretty centrally located, we mainly chose it because it is the gay-borhood of Milan! I’ll write more about our interesting experience below, but we booked our apartment with the idea that we would end our night at a gay bar and then not have to walk far home (Spoiler Alert: we did).
Have lunch in the Brera neighborhood
After dropping our luggage off, we were starving, so we walked to the Brera neighborhood for lunch. Brera is an upscale neighborhood and considered “old Milan,” so every street is stunning. As we walked we continued to move between streets that were empty and ones that were packed to the brim with lunching Italians and tourists. As in Spain, business ofter close after the lunch hour until around dinner time (which is late). We were cutting it close, but thankfully our host was still enthusiastic to seat us. We dined at Carminio- it had good reviews and vegan options for me. I had a deliciously fresh soup, and of course, wine! Feeling much better after lunch, made our way through the city to the Castello Sforzesco.
Explore Castello Sforzesco
Construction began on Castello Sforzesco in the 14th century, and after many modifications over the years, it eventually became one of the largest fortresses in Europe. Now it holds several of Milan’s museums, but is worth a visit simply for it’s magnificence. A notable work is the Sala delle Asse, a frescoed ceiling by Leonardo da Vinci. Read more about the Castello here.
Relax at Sempione Park & Arco della Pace
Meaning “Arch of Peace,” this arch is a beautiful sight as you exit the Castello into Sempione Park. Originally named “Arch of Victory,” it originally began as a celebration of Napoleon. A gorgeous city park, it is filled with a number of walking trails, places to picnic, and people relaxing and playing music.
Admire the paintings of the San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore
Often referred to as the “Sistine Chapel of Milan,” it is known for the seemingly endless frescoes that adorn its walls. I am so thankful for Google maps when looking for places like this, because nothing about its exterior stands out. The inside, however, is jaw-droppingly spectacular, and well worth a visit. Learn more about it here.
Chuckle at the L.O.V.E. statue in Piazza degli Affari
The L.O.V.E. statue (Libertà, Odio, Vendetta, Eternità (or Freedom, Hate, Vengeance, Eternity) ) is a big “eff you” to the financial world of Milan. How many other chances will you have to see a giant middle-finger statue?! Read more here.
Look up in awe at the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
If you came to Milan to expand your fashion horizons, this is the place for you! But even if you’re not big on shopping, this five-story, 150-year-old shopping mall is at least worth a walk through; there are few places like it.
Discover the romance of Milan’s Navigli neighborhood
The Navigli neighborhood comes alive at night as people flock here to enjoy an aperitivo along the canals. Don’t let the crowds discourage you, there plenty of places to explore and it’s enchantment is not something to be missed. These canals were originally built to bring in the materials to build the Duomo, and some even refer to this area as “little Venice.” Aperitivo is hands down one of my favorite parts of Italy (who doesn’t love free snacks with their drink?!), and we found a perfect setting in UGO Cocktail Bar. Read more about how to enjoy aperitivo here! For dinner, there were so many restaurants we just picked one, and honestly I can’t remember what it was called. Just be prepared to be flexible: this is a popular neighborhood so you might not get your first restaurant choice, but it’s Italy- everything is good!
P.S. We did stop in a gay bar for one last drink before heading home, but the gayborhood here is no joke! The lines were so long to get in that we picked the one with the shortest line, had a drink and left. If you are looking for nightlife, Porta Venezia is a great place for it!
DAY 2
Start your day at The Duomo
That’s right, get here as soon as you can. The more time passes, the more people will come. We didn’t want to commit to a time, but if you can, buy your tickets online and you’ll cut out at least some of the waiting. If not, the ticket office is near the side of the Duomo. You’ll take a numbered ticket to wait your turn to go to the counter or machine and purchase your tickets. Even though we arrived very early, it was still very busy- just be mentally prepared for this. Also, you may be tempted to skip the terrace to save time and avoid crowds, but this actually was my favorite part of the experience. The Duomo is one of the largest cathedrals in the world and took over 600 years to build. Read more about the history of the Duomo here.
Important: Shoulders must be covered and clothing cannot come above the knee to enter the cathedral section of the Duomo.
Travel to Varenna
The train from Milan to Varenna is just 1 hour 40 minutes, but you will feel worlds away. Like Bergamo, it is a place frozen in time. The way it is now seems like the way it has always been, but unlike Bergamo, the center of Varenna is exceptionally small, which always you to wander its streets without a care in the world. Without even realizing it, Varenna forces you to relax.
The walk from the train station to central Varenna is slightly complicated but fairly quick. Once we checked into our Airbnb, we had one thing on our minds: wine! After all, we were in Italy! Too late for lunch and too early for aperitivo, we found the most breathtaking patio to enjoy a wine tasting. Many restaurants in Varenna have beautiful views, but Hotel duLac was one of our favorites.
At this point I had originally planned for us to go to Villa Monastero (we’ll do this later), but instead we just ate and drank wine all night! Varenna makes it so easy to enjoy doing nothing. We enjoyed a fabulous aperitivo overlooking the lakefront at Bar Il Molo and an equally exceptional pasta dinner at Caffe Varenna (this was my favorite place). There is so much beauty and charm here that it was almost overwhelming; it felt like a dream world.
Day 3
Morning hike up to Castello di Vezio
The Castello di Vezio is a medieval military outpost and offers some of the most breathtaking views of Lake Como. I highly recommend going in the morning, because we had it almost entirely to ourselves, at least for a little while. The hike up will take you through charming villages and endless olive trees, and the morning sun made everything aglow. We reached the entrance to find a small cafe waiting for us, which we were very thankful for as we had not made time for breakfast. This area also houses a small falconry. Exploring the castle is a lot of fun, and the views were just unbelievable; I could have stayed up there for hours. One of my favorite parts of our visit was seeing the “ghosts of Varenna” throughout the grounds. Every spring, an artist climbs the castle and asks lucky tourists to be the molds for this year’s ghosts. By the end of the year, the weather has worn them down and they must be recreated, so every year the sculptures are different. The ghosts bring an eery yet timeless ambience to the castle and will make your visit all the more interesting.
Be sure to visit the Castello di Vezio’s website (here) for updated information on visiting hours. The castle is closed during the winter months.
Spend the afternoon in Bellagio
Bellagio was honestly way too touristy for me, as I enjoyed the slower pace of Varenna much more, but if a lot of shopping and restaurants are more your scene, Bellagio is the place for you! Don’t get me wrong, Bellagio is beautiful too, it just has a completely different feel than Varenna. There’s a lot going on, which is why it makes for a great way to spend your afternoon! We had a wonderful lunch overlooking the water at Hotel Metropole; the food was so fresh. For the next few hours we just wandered, stopping in at the occasional shop and places like Enoteca La Principessa and Aperitivo Et Al for wine and tastings. The ferry experience to & from Bellagio was a bit confusing, and we even ended up running to the ferry at one point because we realized we were in the wrong place. Lesson learned: get to the ferry a little early to make sure you’re in the right spot!
Channel your inner George Clooney
That’s right, it’s time for a taxi boat tour! Nothing says Lake Como luxury quite like a ride in one of these iconic water taxis. We met our driver at the dock for our 15:30 reservation. There are a number of different tours you can do with Taxi Boat Varenna, but chose the “Central Lake Como & visit to Villa Balbianello” tour (more about the Villa below.). Although the ferry ride had been nice, this was a magical experience. We passed so many stunning towns and villages on our way to and from the Villa, and the timing was simply perfect as we rode back to Varenna with the sun setting behind us.
Tour Villa Balbianello
The tour we selected with Taxi Boat Varenna included a tour of Villa Balbianello! If this name doesn’t sound familiar, you may recognize its setting in movies such as Star Wars: Attack of the Clones (2002) and Casino Royale (2006). Visiting in late afternoon was ideal; the light made for some beautiful photos. Though it has had a few different owners, Villa Balbianello was once owned by an Italian explorer, so the Villa includes some fascinating exhibits from his extensive travels. The complex is filled with perfectly manicured gardens, and if you’re lucky, the gelato truck may be open!
Welcome a leisurely evening in Varenna
Speaking of gelato…after a long day, this was our number one priority when returning to Varenna. As luck would have it, there was a gelato shop called La Passerella (with vegan options!) right next to the dock! We spent the evening relaxing and exploring more of Varenna. For dinner we found a lovely restaurant in the Piazza San Giorgio called Albergo del Sole Ristorante. I ordered pasta again because I couldn’t get enough! Food in Italy just does not disappoint. After dinner we went across the plaza to Hotel Royal Victoria, where we found a large terrace out back overlooking the ocean. There was an outdoor bar and we were the only people there. We drank limoncello, savored the ocean breeze, and reflected on our perfect day.
It’s not goodbye, but see you later
Guess where we had breakfast?! If you guessed Caffe Varenna, you’re correct! If you also guessed that I had pasta for breakfast, you’re correct again! We loved it there, and besides, we needed that front-and-center Lake Como view while eating delicious food one more time.
Because we didn’t explore Villa Monastero the other day, we spent the rest of our time in Varenna here. If you did this already and have the time, this is a great opportunity to check out Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo (what we originally planned).
Although Villa Monastero is home to a museum and other facilities, the main reason to go here is its exquisite botanical garden! You can read more on their website here.
We ate lunch at a cafe next to the train station and said “alla prossima” to Lake Como. This trip was so perfect in every way and often becomes the standard by which all our other trips are measured. Pasta, wine, small town charm, and magnificent lake & mountain views…what’s not to love?!
